Leaf Peeping Detour

Frank and I took a ten-day detour back into the States to “leaf-peep” the northeast. We bypassed the crowded cities for the charm of smaller towns and the busy, four-lane highways for the winding, two-lane backroads, In doing so, we were able to truly relax and enjoy fall’s colorful bounty. The foliage was spectacular. The towns were charming. We also took some time to explore the area’s rich history at some fascinating museums.

The leaves . . .

And so much more . . .

Bar Harbor, Maine

Maine lobsta

Maine lobsta

Acadia National Park

Acadia National Park

Acadia National Park

Acadia National Park

Acadia National Park

Across from our airbnb in Deep River, CT, was the Essex river boat and old fashioned steam train.

Frank was in train heaven!

Essex ferry

Another photo of Frank with a baseball, but this time, the stone underneath the sculpture is what’s noteworthy.

A rock outcropping next to the town’s ball field marks the spot where two continents crashed together 250 million years ago. When the land masses began to pull apart again, a hunk of what might have become Africa remained clinging to North America. Deep River is one of the few places where the ”suture line” can be viewed.

On the eastern side of the rock outcropping is land that was an island continent 500 million years ago. Geologists call it Avalonia.

The wife of the couple who owned our airbnb in the Berkshires was from Menomonee Falls. WI!

I’ve always been interested in the Salem witch trials.

Quietly contemplating this strange time in our country’s history was not to be. October, we found, is a monthlong Halloween party.

There were people everywhere!

Mystic Pizza in Mystic, CT

And I can never pass up a local bookstore!

Pomfret, one of many prestigious boarding schools scattered around the northeast.

St. John’s in Deep River.

Camden, Maine

Camden, Maine

Stonington, CT

Old Saybrook, CT

There is no harbor in Old Saybrook, at the mouth of the Connecticut River, because the 450-mile-long river ends on a sandbar.

Actress Katherine Hepburn spent her childhood summers in Old Saybrook. Later, the town was a haven for her, a retreat, a place she called “paradise” and it was to this paradise that she retired in 1997, sixty-five years after her screen debut. She passed away here in 2003.

Shortly afterwards, the town’s old theatre was restored and the city voted to name it after Katherine Hepburn, the Kate. Fittingly, the endowment fund to keep it running is called the Golden Pond Society.

The second generation of Crane printers, Zenas Crane found a lovely location for a new mill along the banks of the Housatonic River in Dalton, Massachusetts in 1799. Even then, the mill was known for producing paper of the finest quality and became the go-to paper for banks, government proclamations, and stocks and bonds.

The division that prints stationary was recently spun off and given to the employees.

But they still make the paper for money (ours and other countries) here and the guide showed us how they’ve now become a security technology company to make sure new bills can’t be counterfeited. Even though they have to compete for the contract, the Crane Co. is and has been the only paper supplier for US currency.

Frank and I also visited the Norman Rockwell Museum.

They were hosting a special exhibit of Andy Warhol and it was interesting to see the contrast in how the two artists portrayed their subjects.

Rockwell’s workshop.

We also stopped by the home of Herman Melville, author of Moby Dick and other short stories.

North Adams, Massachusetts, also in the Berkshires, is home to the new Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art.

The grounds of the former factory were as interesting as the art inside.

With 250,000 square feet of space(!), it is one of the largest centers for contemporary visual art and performing arts in the country.

Kidspace is a child-centered art gallery and hands-on studio.

The Mastheads’ five writing studios, designed by architects Tessa Kelly and Chris Parkinson, spatially interpret the Berkshire work and homes of American Renaissance writers Herman Melville, Nathaniel Hawthorne, Henry David Thoreau, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, and Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr. The studios are available for three-hour appointments.

An exhibit by light and space artist James Turrell had visitors stepping into and experiencing the art.

Jenny Holzer focuses on the delivery of words and ideas in public spaces.

Liz Glynn

One exhibit we found interesting was this woman who put the focus on her Facebook “friends.”

She visited and photographed her 600+ Facebook friends to make the jump from virtual to actual friendships.

Exhibit visitors were encouraged to write what friendship means to them.

And, in the perfect segue, we return to trees and fall foliage — these, however, being upside down!

Finally, more peeping before we head back to Canada . . .

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Trans Canada, Eh: Across the Continent

Trans Canada One is our road of choice as we road trip 2,200 miles across the continent. Snow and sunshine. Farmland and cities. Lakes and mountains. Each day is a new adventure. I’m embarrassed to admit I never knew much about “our neighbor to the north.” This trip has really been an eye-opener. The cosmopolitan cities, the friendly people and the stunning scenery has amazed and delighted us. Come along and enjoy the ride . . .

Frank and I thought we had “outsmarted” the previous day’s storm by leaving Calgary a day later than planned but we didn’t. Our road trip began with hours of white-knuckled driving over six-inch chunked ice!

I have NEVER seen so many cars and trucks in ditches. The rutted road was treacherously icy as we crawled along for the first few hours.

The epicenter of the storm was in Medicine Hat but surprisingly, upon our arrival there, the roads began to improve. This county had handled their roads much better than their counterparts outside Calgary.

The province of Saskatchewan received just a dusting of snow. The area is known for its production of Durham wheat (used for pasta). The wheat was specially created for Canada’s short summers and matures in only 90 days!

We didn’t have time for our planned visit to Moose Jaw. Alas, we missed the underground tunnels used for rum running during the Depression but we did get to see the town mascot.

Nine hours from a wintry departure, we arrived to a crisp fall evening in Regina, Saskatchewan.

Regina is the capital of Saskatchewan and has about 220,000 people. The city is home to Canada’s first elected socialist government. It was here that government car insurance and government-run health care were “invented.”

After a good night’s rest, we went to downtown Regina’s Farmers Market.

Regina Farmers Market

Frank grabbed a couple bagels from this dude and we were off!

For the most part, Trans Canada 1 is a good road. Unlike the US interstate, however, the highway allows cross traffic, which can be dangerous, even if the speed limits are significantly lower than in the US.

The area east from Regina has lush farmland.

We stopped in Souris at Canada’s longest swinging bridge.

The bridge spans 580 feet across the river.

Winnipeg is the capital of Manitoba and has a population of about 700,000.

Our airbnb in Winnipeg was in the Exchange/Waterfront District.

We had a nice view of the Red River.

We were able to walk to the downtown area as well as “La Fourche,” or the Forks. The Forks is a historic site at the intersection of the Red and Assiniboine rivers.

For centuries, people have gathered where the two rivers meet.

A big draw for tourists and locals is its market.

The Forks Market

The southeast quadrant of Winnipeg was settled by the French. A cornerstone of the area is St Boniface Cathedral.

On July 22, 1968, the 1906 cathedral was damaged in a fire, destroying many features including the rose window. Only the facade, sacristy, and the walls of the old church remained.

In 1972, a new smaller cathedral was built behind the 1906 façade.

The highlight of our trip to Winnipeg was our visit to the Canadian Museum of Human Rights.

It is the only museum of its kind in the world.

The museum focuses on Canadian and international human rights.

Canada was the fourth country in the world to recognize same sex marriage.

An especially compelling exhibit focused on a current issue: Prime Minister Justin Trudeau recently announced a long-awaited national inquiry into the disappearances and murders of indigenous women.

Dozens of Canadian women and girls, most of them indigenous, have disappeared or been murdered near Highway 16, also known as The Highway of Tears.

The museum was built to promote respect for others and to encourage reflection and dialogue. On the top floor, you view messages of hope from visitors. There is also an atrium with incredible views over Winnipeg.

Almost as soon as we drove into the Canadian province of Ontario, we began to see lake . . .

after lake . . .

after lake . . .

and then the big one – Lake Superior. at Old Woman Bay

Lake Superior

In addition to lakes, a key feature of this area is the mile after mile of towering rock walls.

Much of the land in Northwestern Ontario is Canadian Shield. Sedimentary rocks formed from a vast ancient ocean. Volcanos mixed volcanic and sedimentary rocks into folds of granite.

We were amazed at the effort it must have taken to build a road in the midst of the rock.

Aguasabon River Gorge

White River is the birthplace of Winnie the Pooh. The bear was captured here and was left at the London Zoo while its owner, Captain Colbourn, and his regiment was shipped into battle in France during World War I.

Thunder Bay to Sault Ste Marie

Thunder Bay to Sault Ste Marie

The World’s Largest Baseball in Saulte Set Marie

The locks in Sault Ste Marie connect Lake Superior and Lake Huron. The bridge in the background crosses to the US.

The locks in Sault Ste Marie connect Lake Superior and Lake Huron

Lake Huron

We spent the night in Sudbury, which boasts the world’s second highest free standing chimney at 1,246 feet! It is connected to a factory that mines and produces nickel.

Sudbury is also home to Ontario’s top tourist attraction, Science North. The museum is housed in two snowflake-shaped buildings, a former ice rink.

Frank and I spent a couple days in Canada’s capital city, Ottawa. Our airbnb was in Chinatown.

Three Gothic Revival-style buildings, located on a 170-foot bluff overlooking the Ottawa River, house the offices of the members of Parliament, the House of Commons and the Senate.

The Rideau Canal connects Ottawa to Lake Ontario and the Saint Lawrence River at Kingston, Ontario. It is 125 miles in length.

National Gallery of Canada with the iconic spider sculpture.

Notre Dame Cathedral in Ottawa

Notre Dame Cathedral in Ottawa

Ottawa

Ottawa

Ottawa

Ottawa

Ottawa’s Byward Market is home to both a local farmers’ market and artisans with over 260 stands, as well as over 600 businesses.

Byward Market

Byward Market

Byward Market

The Alexandra Bridge between Ottawa and Gatineau is an old railroad bridge now used for vehicles and pedestrians.

In honor of Canada’s 150th celebration, MosaiCanada is an outdoor botanical exhibit showcasing Canada’s history.

MosaiCanada

An artist demonstrates the process to create the botanical sculptures for MosaiCanada

It’s Canada. Of course, there’d be a sculpture dedicated to hockey champs!

They love their hockey but have no patience for when their teams don’t play well.

And football — we saw A LOT of Packer fans in Canada — as we do everywhere else in the world!

Tim Hortons, a Canadian institution. There seem to be more of these than McDonald’s.

Speaking of food, along the roadways, we saw many little random “chip stands.”

There are also a lot of places to get poutine but I can’t get Frank to try it…

Liquor stores. You see LCBOs (Liquor Control Board of Ontario) in big shopping malls, roadside strip malls, all over. Evidently, these liquor stores are owned and operated by the Canadian government – a huge revenue generator.

What’s a blog about Canada without some Canadian geese!

Every time I saw one of these little guys up on a rock, it made me smile.

Inukshuk means “one that looks like a person.”

Their purpose is to guide for a safe journey.